Thursday, July 29, 2010

Castle Stuart Golf Links


How about this opening hole? This is Castle Stuart Golf Links on Moray Firth just east of Inverness, Scotland, and it's a gem. It just opened for play and it is a must visit when you tour the Highlands.

Castle Stuart Golf Links sits in the shadow of a 16th Century Castle, Castle Stuart, which serves as the historic soul of the site. The Castle with its unique dome boldly stands as a backdrop to the par 3, 4th hole. The dome of the Castle is appropriately the logo for the club.

The topography is rolling with indescrible views of the Firth, lighthouses, bridges, Inverness and of the Highlands Mountains. The course is very handsome, strategic, fair and meticulously groomed. Although the course is totally manufactured at great expense by clever and artistic joint designers Mark Parsinen (of Kingsbarn fame) and Gil Hanse, it has the look and feel of having been there a long time waiting to be unearthed. The ultimate compliment for a new course.

Holes framed sensitively and artfully by gorse, broom, heather and wispy fescues blowing in the wind give the course instant maturity. When the clouds break and allows the Scottish light to appear, the course becomes almost dreamlike.

The Inverness area is home to some of the greatest golf courses in the British Isles, if not the world. Royal Dornoch, #15 in the world, and Brora are just north of Inverness. While Nairn, a Morris and Braid beauty, lies just to the east of Castle Stuart. Indeed, Parsinen and Hanse have created a worthy addition to an already "rich in playing golf experience" region.

Putting all this glowing aside for a moment, there are some subjective points to mention. For Scotland, it is too damn expensive to play regularly at 150 pounds. I played Royal Dornoch for 40 pounds for three straight days and played with the townsfolk's butcher, baker and candlestick maker. Now those were lifetime experiences. I don't think you'll find those folks at CS unless they have a very special local's rate. The beaux art deco clubhouse, similar to Royal Birkdale's clubhouse, looks forlorn and completely out of place in that fabulously raw setting. Lastly, it feels too American. By that I mean, I'm an American touring in Scotland. I want to play on a pure Scottish golf course with Scottish golfers, bad lies and all. Furthermore, Parsinen, no shrinking violet and with a full breath of can-do bravado, has designs for more golf courses, hotel, homes and everything else on that property. Sounds like what Trump is up to in Aberdeenshire. Is that good?

I admire Parsinen's vision and Hanse's deft touch in the creation of this fine golf course. But in these challenging economic times and with golf waning, one wonders why another golf course is needed particularly in an already rich golf area like Inverness. Anyway, good luck to the Castle Stuart Golf Links.

For me, the simple peacefulness, innocent beauty and subtle challenges of Royal Dornoch is all I need when I'm in the Highlands. Oh yes, that 40pound ($63) rate is not too shabby either.

Happy golfing.

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